Radical Cosmetics

BusinessWeek: For products as individual and personal as the look of your face, it is remarkable that cosmetics merchandising in the U.S. has remained stuck in its longstanding “look but don’t touch” tradition. On one hand, drug stores sell cosmetics in sealed-plastic packaging that require shoppers to buy things like lipstick without a chance to try it on. Alternatively, department stores allow more hands-on access, but only with the hovering attention of a sales person whose commission is driven by pushing a specific brand. Both approaches leave something to be desired.
Spotting a void in the marketplace, Sephora has staked out the middle ground. Three years ago Europe’s leading retail beauty chain moved into the U.S. with a simple, if radical, concept. It created a retail environment that invited customers to roam the store and try on different lipsticks, eyeliners and blushes made by many different manufacturers. Instead of department store-type cosmetics counters that force shoppers to interact with a salesperson to sample a product, Sephora is organized around freestanding racks that feature such chic brands as Bulgari, Christian Dior, Gucci, Lancome and Calvin Klein.
Sephora’s open, minimalist displays entice shoppers with sumptuous product colors, packaging and bottle design. Strategically placed mirrors, tissues, cotton swabs, astringent and makeup remover encourage sampling. Prices usually out of sight in department stores are prominently marked. Without the pressure of a salesperson eager to close a sale and move on to the next customer, shoppers feel free to spend an hour or more trying out different colors and different brands until they arrive at the exact ones they like.
Sephora: Liberating Beauty Products [BusinessWeek]